Drop Waist Jumper
A Very Full Jumper
If you like lots of room in your jumper, this may be for you. No buttons or zippers necessary, as the jumper goes on over the head. The sweetheart necklne is echoed decoratively on the patch pockets. It was actually the elegant neckline that attracted me to this pattern
The Pattern
The pattern is marketed by Paisely Pincushions, and comes on quality paper. You will need to trace onto your own parchment paper for your size. The pattern package lists s,m,l,xl sizes. The pattern itself lists sizes in dress size numbers. The pattern comes with full instructions including illustrations.
A couple of things you should note about the pattern include no skirt pattern piece (you cut a 45 inch piece the length you desire), and missing in the layout diagram is the pocket piece. If your fabric is wider than 45 inches, you'll want to be sure to mark it.
The Sweetheart Bodice
The instructions for sewing the bodice include placing a safety pin through all of the right shoulder pieces at one point. I don't think I could have managed without that tip and the trick the pattern maker uses to keep track of where everything goes. This pattern uses some techniques for turning lining that I have seen only once before, and I never find it all that easy. The pin trick is important.
After the usual swing front to back at one shoulder, and same for main contrast lining, you sew the contrast to bodice right sides together.
Then there's step 11. Step 11 says in underlined text, "Forget the basic rules of sewing for this next step". Basically, you end up sewing your bodice tucked inside itself inside out, then notch and armhole and turn right-side out.
Here's a pic of the turned bodice with the notch still open:
Here's what it looks like turned:
Assembling the Jumper
The decorative straps are meant to be attached by snaps, but I didn't have any. So I sewed a buttonhole in each end of each strap, and sewed buttons on the markings on the jumper bodice.
The patch pockets have a matching sweetheart shaped top. You have to measure where to sew them on your skirt piece.
Then it's the more usual sewing the front skirt to back skirt, gathering, and sewing the skirt to bodice. Hem the skirt, and you're done.
Since my waist is usually a size Large, I made my Sweetheart jumper in Large. I should have adjusted lengths, as the dropped waist was very low on me. I like dropped waist style, but with this roomy jumper it means I have to be careful to wear a very long shirt under it.
This pattern is available online at Paisely Pincushions.
